Last Days in Boise

Saturday, June 25, 2016

Today we ventured back downtown to get a better picture of the State Capital Building which is quite impressive.  We did not go inside but we did observe a group of people waving flags and someone speaking through a loud speaker at the foot of the Building.  Not sure what there was going on or if it was a protest.  Not a great number of people at any rate. 

We did stroll through the downtown Saturday morning marketplace.  They close off 8th Street for about 4 blocks and vendors of all sorts have set up their canopies to sell their wares from vegetables to jewelry to plants to pottery and let’s not forget the biggie, food.  One street in this area is filled with restaurants with outside seating filled to capacity with families, students and others enjoying a meal.  The weather today is perfect for this with low wind, mid 70’s and clear skies.  We had fun watching the people and seeing what was available. 

The real reason for our trip into downtown was to go to the Basque Block and take in their Cultural Center and Museum..  Why our interest?  My mother grew up with Basque people in Central California and I have eaten in a Basque restaurant there many times always enjoying the food and the family style of serving.  I knew the folks from Mom's town were basically sheepherders but I was not aware there were large numbers of Basque living in Idaho as well.

Who are the Basques?  The Basque people come from the Bay of Biscay which is at the western end of the Pyrennes mountain range saddling the border of France and Spain.  The Basque language is the only surviving Pre-Roman tribal language in Spain though Basques from the French area speak more of a French dialect.  There are three states where large numbers of Basque live.  They are California, Idaho and Nevada with the largest being in Idaho.  Arriving in America, the men were traditionally sheepherders spending many months on the open range living in tents and wagon while herding sheep.  While many became citizens, they never learned the English language which was not necessary on the range.  When in town, the single men boarded at hotels and boarding houses leaving their personal belongings there while out on the range.  Like many cultures, the Basque men came alone to America first leaving their families back at home in the old country.

The Basque Cultural Center and Museum (the only one in the U.S.) was established to preserve, promote and perpetuate Basque history and culture with many interesting displays.  We learned about the geography of the Basque Country, Basque seafarers and whalers, music and dance, religion and about their lives and occupations as they settled in the West.  

Next door to the Museum is the Cyrus Jacobs/Uberuaga House where we were given a guided tour but unfortunately could not take inside pictures. 

The house was built in 1864.  In 1910 it became a Basque boarding house.  Those who stayed at the house could be surrounded with familiar Basque food, dancing and games and most important to them, their own language.  The house is furnished with many artifacts and historical pieces.  The lady giving the tour is Basque and spoke about customs and her family traditions. 

The first floor of the house included a traditional front room, bedroom, kitchen, large dining room with built ins for linens, dishes, etc., and laundry room which included a tub and sink as well as a washing machine.  Between the front and back kitchen area was the “commode room” put in later.  Outback we were told there had been a fancy “outhouse”.  Upstairs we found several large bedrooms having one or two double beds in them.  A couple of the bedrooms were just large enough for a single bed and storage space.  Each bedroom did have under the eaves storage space where the boarders could leave their trunks when out on the range.

Next door to the house is the Basque Center where they stage social and cultural activities and another Boarding House call the Fronton Building which as built in 1912.  It is said to have a Basque Ball Court (Fronton) inside where games of pala with a wooden racket and a hard rubber ball are regularly played.  Several restaurants dot the neighborhood and it smelled wonderful. 

Strolling along the street we came across the picture below.  These are granite pieces engraved with surnames from A to Z, songs and coats of arms.  Also a panel honoring the Basque sheepherder and showing carvings left in the aspen groves by the sheepherders.  Quite interesting. 

At the end of the block we found two very large sculptures which are enlarged versions of the LAIAK which is a tool used by the Basques to turn the soil.

On the next block we come across this beautiful mural. 

If you are not familiar with Basque family style dinning, it is that everyone sits together at a long picnic table often with people you do not even know.  The meal is served family style based on the number of persons in each group.  Bowls are then passed around as one does at home.  At the restaurant in California (Wool Growers) where I have eaten, service is as described below:

“There is no menu. Your waitress, who will be friendly, will tell you that you have a choice of beef, lamb or chicken. She will put a bottle of uncorked, unlabeled wine at your table. This is included with your meal.  Then the food will start to arrive: Bowls of soup and beans, a heaping serving of lamb stew, bread, green salad, potato salad. You will think, if it’s your first time at Wool Growers that your waitress has made a mistake, but then you will learn she is only serving you the first course.”

The long and short of the above meal is that you should go to the restaurant with a very empty stomach.  You certainly should not go away hungry after several more courses and ice cream for dessert.   Two years ago while taking my Mother’s ashes to California for burial, my brother, my children, my nephew and Ron and I all went to dinner  at Wool Growers remembering the times we had been there with my parents and grandparents in years past.    The building is over 100 years old and originally was a hotel and restaurant.   Since I am once again on my special diet, we did not stay downtown for a meal. 

 Sunday, June 26, 2016

Today was a get ready to move day so we spent the day at the RV.  Ron, however, did pick out a nice local Italian restaurant for us to celebrate our anniversary.  It is called Luciano’s and I highly recommend it.  Service and food were both excellent.  Nice little place with an Italian décor.  Here is a picture of our table décor and our celebration glass of wine.   We both had the veal marsala which was served with an herbed polenta underneath the meat and gravy and a side salad.  

Tomorrow we will head further north to the town of McCall.  See you there.